BEYOND THE MENU

Q:  If wine didn’t exist, what would you be a sommelier of instead? 

A:  In my heart, I know that if wine didn't exist, then I would be all in with Fried Chicken.  I want to be able to read fried chicken like brail as seen in that one viral video.  The world is a wondrous place, and in every corner, you can find some form of fried chicken.  I'm serious; I would devote myself to becoming a Fried Chicken Scholar like a Galline George Motz.

Q:  If you had to describe yourself as a wine, what would you be and why?

A:  I'm trying to think of a wine that has no filter.  I'm the kind of guy that wears his heart on his sleeve. 

As it applies to my work, this is great.  I am hyper-motivated to create an experience at Arden that is heartfelt and genuine.  I want us to find our voice and sing it proudly.

That makes me Sangiovese.  This is one of the most distinctive varieties around.  The high tannin, high acidity nature of this grape is unmistakable.    In the glass, Sangiovese screams.  There is a purity and verve to this grape.  This is a grape that lays its cards out on the table and plows ahead with reckless abandon. 

The Blood of Jupiter runs through my veins. 

Q:  What’s the best “bad” wine you secretly love? (A guilty pleasure bottle that’s totally underrated.)

A:  I am notoriously unforgiving when it comes to bad wine.  I like to say that I would rather use that stuff to clean my armpits than drink it.  By the way, I define bad wine as over-manipulated, factory-farmed wine that a marketing team jams down your throat.  Bad wine exists at every price point.  I run and hide.

Now if you are asking about unfashionable wine, then I have an answer for you.  I will happily chug away an entire magnum of cheap Chianti.  I'm talking about the old-school bottles with the straw basket on the bottom.  Apparently, the name for this is a Fiasco. This wine is about two steps above in-flight airline Merlot in terms of deliciosity, but it is usually made with a reasonable amount of attention.

Q:  Is there a wine that pairs well with Spam musubi, or are we just dreaming?

A:  Great question.  This is something that I think about a lot.  As it pertains to Spam Musubi, I just stumbled upon the perfect pairing. 

The answer is Valpolicella Ripasso, specifically Tommaso Bussola's.  Valpolicella Ripasso is a wine from the Veneto Region in the North of Italy.  This region has a very cool climate due to influences from the Alps to the North.  The grapes there are barely ripe and high in acidity.  This acidity is key to the paring because Spam Musubi has a sticky-sweet sauce, rich/fatty meat, and umami from the nori and shoyu.  You want a wine with higher acidity to cut through the fat and to buttress against the sweetness.

The second consideration is the unique winemaking technique used to produce this wine.  The Ripasso method utilizes grapes that have been dried overwinter and used to make Amarone.  The drying process concentrates the flavors and sugars in the grapes and imparts notes of chocolate, spice, and dried cherries to the wine.  You want a wine with a rich and robust fruit profile without too much tannin.  The Ripasso method almost reverse-engineers the typical flavors of a bold, sunbaked wine from a hot climate while retaining acidity and keeping tannin levels relatively low.

In other words, this is the perfect hack for Spam Musubi.

It is worth noting that there are a lot of really bad Ripassos out there.  Some winemakers paint with a really heavy hand.  Good Ripasso is focused; it is simultaneously rich and fresh.  This isn't going to work if you get one that is too oaky or has too much residual sugar.

I have the right stuff at Arden, just bring me a spam musubi. 

Q:  If wine could capture the feeling of Hawai‘i, which one would come closest?

A:  This is a hard question.  I interpret the "feeling of Hawai'i" to mean the feeling that you get when you are here.  I am seeing this from the perspective of either a visitor or a local person who is returning home after some time away.  The latter scenario applies to my current situation. 

When I returned home after almost 12 years in Canada, I felt time slow down.  It felt like a lot had changed, yet everything remained the same.  I suppose then, that we are looking for a wine that has a rich history and production methods that have not changed much over time. 

Secondly, there is a strong sense of identity that I get from being in Hawaii.  The way of life is deeply rooted in a strong sense of culture and place.  The collective mindset is one of zero pretension; we just are who we are here.  As it applies to wine, we are looking for something that isn't affected by the gravitational pull of big money.  It has to be about the wine.

Lastly, the wine has to match stylistically to the climate and lifestyle of Hawaii.  I want a wine that will cool me down after a day at the beach. 

I figured it out: Rias Baixas.  This is a wine region in Northwestern Spain.  Rias Biaxas is known for one thing and one thing only: fresh, coastal White Wines made from the Albarino Grape.  These wines can be linear and easy drinking, or they can develop complexity and minerality like wines from Vouvray or Burgundy.

The people of this region are natural watermen.  In fact, historically, the women would tend the vines and make the wine while the men were at sea fishing.  There is an inherent sense of Pono in these wines.  The traditional viticultural practices are still widely employed.  The grapes are grown by individual micro-producers who tend their plots with care.

I think I hit the nail on the head with his one.  Go get yourself some Rias Baixas.  Feel at home. 

Q:  If you had to pair a wine with a classic Hawaiian plate lunch, what would it be?

A:  North Shore Shrimp Truck + Ribolla Gialla from Friuli or Garganega from Veneto.  I'm all about the Italian Wines.

Visintini makes a Ribolla Gialla that is fresh and pure with a touch of lees aging.

If you wanted to go in a zippier, lemony direction, I am crazy about Le Frage's Camporengo from the banks of Lake Garda in Bardolino. 

Q:  What’s one wine myth that drives you crazy?

A:  This might be fighting words to some people.  I reject the notion that "Bigger is Better" in wine.  The arms race that was Napa Valley for the past few decades created a woefully misguided system of quality assessment in wine.  The term, "jammy", gives me shivers. 

To me, the best indication of quality in wine is precision, not power.  The wines that I love are focused, complex, and layered.  When I take a sip, I want the wine to take me places.  I want a wine that will dance across my tongue and continue to develop.

If I wanted to be punched in the face by something big and deep red, I would go back to Canada and sign up for rec league hockey with my friend Dylan.  Napa Cabs are not my thing.

Q:  What’s the best “bang for your buck” bottle that tastes way more expensive than it is?

A:  I've gotten in trouble with this before.  When I say that a wine "punches above its weight", I am usually talking about a wine that is $50 on the shelf that tastes like it should be $300 (there's a story there).  These are the wines that get me out of bed in the morning.  Yes, you have to commit, but what you get in return is a bottle that will change your life.

I'll give you one that I have on the list right now at Arden:

Chateau de Beru, "Athenais" Bourgogne Aligote AOC, Burgundy, France. 

This wine stopped my heart.  Chardonnays from Burgundy have become stupidly expensive, so I don't reach for them as much.  Everything that is good about White Burgundy explodes out of this wine for a fraction of the price.  This wine is light on its feet and hits you first with bright lemon juice.  The wine flirts with richness and toastiness on the mid-palate like Chassagne Montrachet.  The finish is a flume of chalk dust that flutters away in the wind.  I would choose this over every other white in the cellar. 

Wine is so cool.

Q:  If you could only drink one type of wine for the rest of your life, what would it be?

A:  I almost said Barolo.  Then I realized that I am a deeply impatient human.  I don't always have the time to mess around with a wine that needs hours to decant.  

I chose Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.  Chenin can be made in a variety of styles from Sparkling to Sweet, so I can have some variety.  Also, at least 5 of my top 20 stunners are Chenin Blanc.

Q:  Explain your Super Cool Wine Matrix and just how cool it is.

A:  The biggest lesson that I try to preach to wine novices is that wine does not exist in a linear hierarchy.  Instead, I want people to think of the world of wine like it's your wardrobe.  Always drink for the occasion.  With wine, it's possible to be overdressed or underdressed.  A top-tier wine can feel flabby and out of place if inserted into the wrong situation (e.g. Aged white Rioja and a campfire in the dead of summer, don't ask).

The purpose of the Super Cool Wine Matrix is to teach the staff how to contextualize each wine on the list.  From the moment that the grapes are picked, the winemaker has determined the style and market for each wine that he/she produces.  Some wines are considered vin de soif and are meant to be enjoyed simply.  Some wines are intended for cellaring and aging.  It is important to understand how and by whom a wine was intended to be enjoyed.

The point is that not every wine is going to be for everyone.  This matrix helps pinpoint where each wine sits on the spectrum and gives clues about when it is best to reach for each bottle.

Mauka Meats owner Micah Richards, a former finance professional, heeded the call to return to the island and fulfill the need for locally sourced meats. At Arden Waikiki, he supplies the renowned “Local Butcher’s Cut”, featuring charcoal-grilled grass-fed beef from Rose Cattle. The result is a tender and flavorful meat that embodies the essence of Hawaii’s agricultural heritage.

To elevate the dining experience, Arden Waikiki employs a traditional Japanese charcoal grill, infusing the beef with a smoky essence that sets it apart. This unique cooking method imparts a distinct flavor profile, adding depth and character to each bite.

Chef Makoto, the creative mind behind Arden Waikiki’s main course menu, conceptualized a vegetable demi sauce as a lighter and sustainable alternative to traditional demi-glace. Makoto’s dedication to minimizing food waste while delivering exquisite flavors is truly commendable.

In a departure from the classic compound butter found on steaks, Makoto introduces Ume Butter to the Local Butcher’s Cut. This tangy and acidic butter offers a delightful contrast to the rich, grilled beef. Its unique flavor profile adds excitement and intrigue to the dish, creating an unexpected balance.

Pepper Crusted Ahi: A Fusion of Land and Sea

Arden Waikiki takes the popular Pepper Crusted Ahi dish to new heights by incorporating elements reminiscent of a perfectly cooked steak. Chef Makoto’s fresh take includes coriander and sesame seeds in the traditional pepper rub, enhancing the meatiness of the fish.

To further elevate the dish, a velvety hollandaise sauce is introduced, reminiscent of the classic Bearnaise sauce. The addition of Sumida Farm watercress provides a refreshing crunch and adds a vibrant freshness to the plate.

Arden Waikiki’s menu items truly embody the essence of Hawaii’s diverse culinary landscape. From the locally sourced, charcoal-grilled beef to the imaginative sauces and flavor combinations, every element tells a story and offers a unique sensory experience.

Through the visionary creations of Chef Makoto and the amazing purveyors we partner with, Arden Waikiki showcases the immense potential of sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. It is a testament to the impactful individuals who strive to revolutionize the culinary scene while respecting the environment.

So, dive into these extraordinary dishes and embark on a culinary adventure that celebrates the best of what Arden has to offer.

Brussels sprouts have come a long way from being the dreaded vegetable on the dinner plate. Once considered bland and unappetizing, Brussels sprouts have undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years. They have become one of the most popular vegetables on menus around the world.

Brussels sprouts have been around for centuries, originating from ancient Rome and later cultivated in Belgium, from which they derived their name. However, it wasn’t until the 16th century that they gained popularity in Europe and eventually made their way to North America.

In the late 1990s scientists identified specific chemicals, called glucosinolates, that made Brussels sprouts taste bitter. Plant breeders started growing old seeds, previously discarded for producing paltry harvests, to identify tastier versions with lower levels of these compounds.

Hello Y2K! Roasting Brussels sprouts became a game-changer. The high heat caramelized their outer leaves, bringing out a nutty and sweet flavor that was far from the mushy and bitter taste of boiled sprouts. This simple technique elevated Brussels sprouts from a side dish to the star of the show.

Roasted Brussels-Local Twist

At Arden Waikiki, the Brussels sprouts are roasted to perfection, bringing out their natural flavors and caramelizing their outer leaves. The deep fried Spam, (yes we said Spam!) adds a crispy, salty crunch and contrasts the textures of the tender Brussels sprouts creating a satisfying combo that you might even replicate at home. The idea of pairing these two seemingly disparate ingredients might raise an eyebrow or two, but the genius lies in the unexpected combination that takes place – thanks to Chef Makoto.

The homemade chili pineapple sauce serves as a bridge between the saltiness of the Spam, the bitterness of the Brussels sprouts, and the inherent sweetness of the pineapple. The combination of spice and tang in the sauce creates a delightful contrast, enhancing the overall flavor profile of the dish.

In a world where boundaries are constantly being pushed and local traditions are being reimagined, the Roasted Brussels represents a harmonious union of comfort. It reminds us that the beauty of food lies not only in its taste but also in the stories it tells and the connections it forges. So, the next time you find yourself at Arden Waikiki, be sure to indulge in this “local” culinary treat.

Arden Waikiki takes pride in using locally grown vegetables, ensuring that each dish bursts with freshness and flavor. By sourcing the majority of the produce from nearby farms, the team not only supports the local community but also promotes sustainability and reduces their carbon footprint. From farm to sea, the menu really showcases the best of what the islands have to offer.

Roasted Kahumana Zucchini-A Taste of Sweet and Earthy

The Roasted Kahumana Zucchini, with its enticing Lehua Honey vinaigrette, pickled raw zucchini, and garlic panko, is another testament to the creativity and appreciation of local ingredients by talented chefs.

Chefs are like artists, inspired by the sights and ingredients they encounter while crafting their menu items. In the case of the Roasted Kahumana Zucchini, Chef Makoto was captivated by the vibrant local zucchinis grown in the fertile Hawaiian soil, possessing a unique freshness and flavor that distinguishes them from their counterparts elsewhere.

To complement the earthiness of the zucchinis, the Chef sought a vinaigrette that would take this simple side to new heights. Lehua honey is known for its floral notes and lighter texture which added a delightful sweetness to the dish.

Thai basil, with its aromatic and slightly spicy profile, proved to be the ideal companion to the roasted zucchinis. The herb’s unique flavor highlights the natural freshness of the zucchinis, creating a harmonious balance on the plate.

Roasted Hirabara Farms Carrots

Next up, the Roasted Hirabara Farms Carrots. At the heart of this dish lies the humble carrot, sourced from the renowned Hirabara Farms on Hawaii Island. These carrots, grown with care and dedication, possess a natural sweetness that is beautifully enhanced when roasted.

Chef Makoto turned to an unexpected ingredient for the accompanying sauce – black sesame. Black sesame brings a depth and richness that complements the sweetness of the carrots. In Hawaii, sesame dressing may be a staple, but as always, Chef Makoto wanted to explore a unique twist on this familiar flavor.

Local favorite and an Arden menu go-to, Sweet Land Farm goat Chevre adds a creamy and tangy element that beautifully balances the sweetness of the carrots and the richness of the black sesame sauce.

As we savor each bite of these thoughtful, reimagined sides, let’s celebrate the dedication of the farmers, the creativity of the chefs, and the vast flavors that our local land has to offer.

One of the standout dishes on the Arden Waikiki menu is the Maui Venison Tartare. This exquisite creation combines flavors, textures, and ingredients in the most harmonious way possible. Here we delve into the intricacies of this dish and unveil the fascinating stories behind its components.

The first intriguing element of this tantalizing dish is the venison itself. A pleasant surprise for many, the availability of venison in Hawaii is a testament to the efforts put forth by an organization dedicated to preserving the delicate ecosystem of the islands.

The Axis deer are invasive to Hawaii. As the story goes, In 1867, the trading company Jardine Matheson allegedly brought seven of the spotted deer from India to Moloka‘i at King Kamehameha V’s request. With no natural predators or seasonal changes, the deer population steadily grew. They became a source of nourishment and hunting traditions across Hawaii. In September 1959, the archipelago’s Territorial Legislature released two bucks and three doe into Maui’s Puu O Kali forest in order to encourage recreational hunting. Today, an estimated 60,000 deer live on Maui alone. Left unmanaged, the population will reach 200,000 in the next two decades at a 30 percent annual increase.

Luckily, our friends at Maui Nui Venison are trying to manage the issue. The company hunts, processes, and commercially sells the deer with the goal to both maintain them as a food source and manage their population in order to protect the rare and vital ecosystems unique to Hawaii.

Accompanying the venison tartare is the intriguingly named Pillow Toast. This Japanese-inspired delicacy adds a touch of elegance and novelty to the dish. The term “Pillow Toast” refers to a unique presentation style where the toast is sliced into small, pillow-shaped pieces, creating a visually appealing and texturally interesting element.

Another local ingredient that adds depth and flavor to the Maui Venison Tartare is the okra. Chef Makoto was pleasantly surprised to find this versatile vegetable available in Hawaii, and he sourced it from Kahumana Farms, known for their commitment to sustainable farming practices.

The inclusion of okra not only adds a delightful crunch to the dish but also pays homage to the rich agricultural traditions of the island. By supporting local farms, Arden Waikiki ensures that our dishes are not only delicious but also contribute to the local economy and promote sustainability.

Through dishes like the Maui Venison Tartare, Chefs Makoto and Amanda showcase their ingenuity in combining unique flavors, local ingredients and cultural influences to create a dining experience that is educational and memorable.

Arden’s salads are more than just starters; they transport diners to a world where flavors intertwine and traditions collide.

A Confluence of Tradition and Local Innovation -Don’t call it a “Caesar”

The Island “Caesar” Salad holds a special place on the menu. While it may not be the traditional rendition, it captivates diners with its unique twist. The absence of anchovies lends a lighter touch to the salad, allowing the other flavors to shine.

Chef Makoto sought to craft a dressing that would be both creamy and light. Tofu became the base, providing a smooth canvas for the flavors to blend harmoniously. However, Chef Makoto felt that the tofu alone lacked the desired richness. Enter macadamia nuts, a healthier alternative to oils, that added depth and a touch of indulgence. To further enhance the flavor profile, cheese made its grand entrance.

Nestled on the North Shore of Oahu, Sweet Land Farm became the source of the tantalizing tomme cheese. This semi-hard cheese brought a distinct flavor and a delightful touch of fattiness to the Island “Caesar” Salad. A visit to Sweet Land Farm proved to be an awe-inspiring experience for the Arden chefs. The farm’s friendly and welcoming atmosphere, coupled with the endearing practice of naming their goats, created a truly memorable encounter.

Every element of the Island “Caesar” at Arden Waikiki is carefully curated to evoke a sense of adventure. As a creative alternative to traditional croutons, Chef uses the crispy twist of ulu chips sourced from the Hawaii Ulu Cooperative. These chips arrive cooked and are expertly peeled and fried by Makoto himself. The result? A crunchy texture that adds a unique charm to this contemporary masterpiece.